Welcome to Paradise

January 25, 2007 - Atiu - 11:45 am

Atiu is visible out the side windows of the cockpit and they are removing the sun shield and beginning preparations for landing. The airstrip was on the opposite side of the island from our approach, necessitating a U turn over the ocean before we could land. As we approached the airstrip I was thankful for the small size of the aircraft, especially when I realized it was unpaved.
The airport at Atiu isn't more than a small shed with a roof and two walls. There is a notice on the inside about a voluntary security check. Everyone was milling around with flower 'eis, greeting and sending off. Marshall found us, handing off two gardenia 'eis which smelled phenomenal. Properly greeted we obtained our luggage such as it was. Marshall kept looking, saying he was expecting a package. He was surprised when I told him I had it in my bag already. His daughter spotted us at the airport and asked us if we would take a package of cheese to her father.
Before being given a brief tour of the island, we were shown the harbour. The harbour is where all the excitement happens. The day before, the cargo ship had finally arrived. This was cause for great excitement because sometimes there is no cargo for a few months. Food here is expensive and unless you grow your own vegetables or raise your own meat, your diet won't be greatly varied and will consist mostly of canned goods. Even then you are limited to peas, creamed corn, tomatoes, spaghetti, beans, kidney beans, tuna, pink salmon, mackerel and the local "corned beef" which is really spam in a can. You also have noodles, rice and if you get lucky like we did yesterday, fresh potatoes. I also made the discovery of fabulous plain donuts, which I assume come from the bakery.
In the meantime, we were shown to the cafe where we were given grilled tomato and onion and cheese sandwiches - the only thing on the menu as it was the only thing in stock. The lady who runs the cafe sat out and talked with us, giving us all kinds of information on the island. The conversation was fabulous and I wouldn't hesitate in recommending the cafe to anyone who is here.
Marshall Humphreys is our host - Atiu homestays is where we currently call home. He and his wife raised their kids here and now that they've all moved to either Rarotonga or Australia or New Zealand, the house is vacant. Marshall is the ex-hotelier who introduced fine dining to New Zealand way back in the day. His wife is an artist from Atiu. The house is huge and beautiful and tied down. It is cyclone season. The lady who runs the cafe tells us that because of cyclone season, there won't be any dances. Apparently Friday night is dance night down at the local community hall - except during cyclone season.