The Anti Clockwise Bus

January 17, 2007 - Avarua, Rarotonga

Motor scooters and vehicles pass by the window. Somewhere Over the Rainbow is being swung to a polynesian rhythm. The sun shines on the building across the road, its side the same green as moss. Jungle and hills are visible beyond.

Nothing seems to rush or be in a hurry - it would be impossible to be in a hurry in this heat.

There are two ways to get into Avarua from home. The first is the back road, the second is the main road via the airport. I live close to the airport. It is about a three minute walk if I am particularly slow. The large jets rattle my windows. By the time I leave I will know the schedule of who flies when like the back of my hand. I still have not seen United fly in - I heard they do - just Air New Zealand and Air France.

The back road is primarily residential. It is at the foot of the mountains and runs in some form or another around the whole island. Places are given as being on the back road or the main road. The walk into town is not long - surprisingly it feels shorter to walk by the airport than along the back road, although the back road is much better lit at night.

The jungle is amazing. I cannot think of how to describe the flora other than to use other places - it reminds me of the Caymans and Hawai'i with a handful of bushes and trees I've seen on the north island of New Zealand.

The people are friendly, quiet, polite. Welcoming. Folks say hello on the street and in the shops. They know where I am from, slowly. They cannot imagine what -20 with a foot or two of snow would be like.

The island holds two buses - the Clockwise Bus and the Anti Clockwise Bus. Both stop at the bus stop in Avarua and a round trip around the island is about a half hour in duration. Avarua is clearly the only town of any size on the island. Muri beach is noticeable, as is Black Rock, but neither seem to have the structure of Avarua. The rest of the island is a loose collection of homes and businesses strung along the main road - much as settlements seem to be on all the small islands I have ever visited.

The beach is a bit of an enigma. It exists. But it is not particularly good for swimming due to the large numbers of sharp rock and coral in the water. The current is quite strong. It appears to be relatively consistent around the island - rocky lagoon areas, broken up by areas inaccessible due to rather large black rocks along the shore. I get the feeling this will not be a swimming trip per se - although I am reserving judgement until I have seen what 'Atiu has to offer.

There are several pubs/nightclubs in Avarua - and by several I mean there's TJ's, Banana Court and the RSA, as well as Nu Bar down by the airport. Throughout the week they rotate and each pub has a night where it is the feature pub - and it appears most of the island turns out for the fun. I have not been to TJ's - the night I arrived it was Banana Court where they held the dance competition, and last night was Banana Court again. Banana Court is frightening. They have a dance floor and a bar in the back that resembles a well-carved tiki hut (I don't think the carvings are actual tiki gods, I think they're other gods) and far too many obnoxious backpackers. I think I'll give the others a look out of curiosity, but perhaps lay the pub/club scene to rest. The movie theatre has shows three times a night, and that is about it for nightlife. Cafes and most other businesses close shop at 4 or 4:30.

On the menu for today is sorting accommodation for 'Atiu, as well as inquiring if our fine hosts need anything from the bustling supermarkets of Rarotonga. The most appealing place to stay is a homestay - the family welcomes you into their home for however long you are there. It is run by.... let's see. If memory serves, it is run by a Kiwi family who have lived there for a generation. The book says it is common courtesy to bring dried or canned goods for any visit to the outer islands because the cargo ships do not visit as frequently as they are supposed to, and canned goods are expensive here. To compare, a bag of carrots, a can of tomatoes (there are no fresh ones, apparently they don't grow tomatoes here) and five packages of instant noodles came to NZ$10. The same at home might stretch your pocket to CAD$4.00 if you picked particularly expensive carrots.

The rest of today's menu is staying out of the sun - it is scorching hot today and I managed to burn the first two days, exacerbated by my swim yesterday. A day in the shade is what I really need - good time for writing.